Key themes at the AATCC conference were innovation, denim and sustainability
When I attend conferences, I like to write about my three top takeaways. This conference was particularly hard given the many interesting talks.
Two of the three takeaways were about denim. Technologies for denim manufacturing focussed on water and chemical reduction, and this is important given denim’s reputation for being a large water user and polluter.
It’s going to get harder to bleach denim
In July 2019, potassium permanganate was placed on the ECHA Community rolling action plan (CoRAP) list. This means that a Member state of the EU has evaluated, or will evaluate potassium permanganate over the coming years. The EU has designated potassium permanganate as a possible CMR due to its potential toxicity towards the unborn child.
How will it impact the industry?
If potassium permanganate is regulated, it will be illegal to import garments processed with the chemical into the EU.
Potassium permanganate is mostly used to oxidise and decolorize indigo. High contrast “worn areas” are achieved by spraying the chemical directly onto a garment.
We have known for a long time that manganese is hazardous to aquatic life and some brands have already replaced potassium permanganate with safer alternatives.
My advice is for the denim industry to phase out of this chemical as soon as possible. Proactively managing chemicals make good business sense. Chasing regulations does not.
Biofuze – A biodegradable polyester
Polyester doesn’t degrade in the environment, and numerous textile products end up in landfills. Paradise Textiles has created a new polyester called Biofuze. It contains a chemical additive that speeds up biodegradation of polyester from hundreds of years to a few months. Here is how it works
- A proprietary chemical is added to the PET resin that makes polyester. This additive adheres to the OekoTex 100 standard.
- BioFuze polyester, when discarded, attracts microbes in landfills that accelerate biodegradation.
- Up to 80% of the polyester breaks down in 7 months creating methane gas as a by-product.
- Methane, if collected, can be made into biofuel. Methane is a greenhouse gas, and therefore capturing it is an important part of meeting sustainability requirements.
I have previously written about how Mango Materials uses methane from landfills to make new chemicals and fibers.
Zero discharge denim processing
“Zero discharge” denim processing will transform the denim industry!
Jeanologia, an equipment manufacturer, and expert in denim processing has created a commercial process called H2 Zero that completely eliminates discharge in denim processing.
The company has laid out a facility that utilizes state-of-the-art technology and equipment that radically reduces water and chemicals in manufacturing.
- Lasers create visual wear effects
- Ozone bleaches and removes redeposited indigo.
- Foam or bubbles transport chemicals to the denim.
- Closed loop systems capture and recycle water.
The vision is inspiring, and the technology is commercial.
Zero discharge could solve so many of the industry’s problems because it addresses both water and chemical reduction. I think it will transform denim manufacturing within a decade.
The AATCC conference is a good resource, especially for test methods and technical presentations. I am looking forward to the next one!
Do you need help with your circular strategy?
For help with sustainability, circularity and chemicals, contact Amanda Cattermole at (415) 412 8406 or Amanda@cattermoleconsulting.com. We can help you develop powerful solutions to protect your company and brand reputation.
Tips and Insights contains information to help you make informed sustainability decisions. Each post highlights a particular topic and includes questions you may want to consider for your business.